spot the spot

Skin Cancer: A Visual Guide to Identifying Warning Signs on Your Body

Here's what skin cancer actually looks like.
types of skin cancers
Courtesy of Skin Cancer Foundation

Despite everything we know about the importance of wearing SPF, skin cancer still remains a potentially deadly — yet preventable — risk. No matter what color your skin is or age you might be, this disease doesn't discriminate. The good news is that the more we learn about it and how to stop it from developing, the more healthy your skin will be.

The most important thing you can do to protect yourself against skin cancer is to take your head-to-toe sun protection routine seriously (more on that later), but being aware of the most common skin cancer types can save your or another person's life. That's why staying vigilant about any insidious spots is so vital to catching potential skin cancer symptoms early — skin checks are one of the easiest ways to make sure your body's largest organ remains cancer-free.  Whether it's a cancerous mole, malignant melanoma, or just a plain ol' freckle, knowledge is power when you spot something that seems suspicious. 

Also vital: the ability to find references and care that are inclusive of all skin tones. The internet is seriously lacking in diversity in dermatological imagery (a form of algorithmic injustice) which means less people of color have the resources they need to identify potential skin cancer before it gets worse. Vaseline's See My Skin platform is a representation-minded database created specifically to help people search conditions on skin of color. 

In the campaign, we committed to raising awareness of the racially biased systems that impact algorithmic search, providing proper representation and access to equal care, and most of all, helping these communities be seen.

So, what exactly does skin cancer look like, especially on a diverse set of skin tones? We asked board-certified dermatologists to break down how to spot something troublesome and how to increase your chances of remaining cancer-free.


Meet the experts:
  • Anne Marie McNeill, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in California and a spokesperson for the Skin Cancer Foundation.
  • Julie Karen, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.
  • Doris Day, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and a spokesperson for the Skin Cancer Foundation.

In this story:

Read on to learn more about how different types of skin cancer look on the body.

What are the most common types of skin cancer?

When it comes to skin cancer, you'll often hear dermatologists talk about "the big three." 

"The three most common forms of skin cancer are basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and melanoma," Anne Marie McNeill, a board-certified dermatologist in California and a spokesperson for the Skin Cancer Foundation (SCF), tells Allure. Here's a visual guide to each type, though you should always see your dermatologist ASAP if you notice any new patches or spots on your skin.

Basal Cell Carcinoma

advanced basal carcinoma

Courtesy of Skin Cancer Foundation

superficial basal cell carcinoma

Basal cell carcinoma is the most common form of skin cancer, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. It estimates 3.6 million cases are diagnosed in the U.S. each year. Though it's fairly common, relatively few people die from basal cell carcinomas — the SCF estimates the annual number of deaths is around 3,000.

"Basal cells can look lots of different ways," says Dr. McNeill. Most commonly, they'll look like little red patches or open sores. Sometimes, these spots have a raised border with an indentation in the center, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation. But they can also look more unassuming — like a flat scar, a patch of eczema, or a pearly pimple. "I often tell my patients if they have a spot that looks like a pimple or a sore [that hasn't healed], I want them to come in," Dr. McNeil says. "It's probably not a pimple if it hasn't gone away after a month."

Your risk for this type of skin cancer goes up as you get older and get more sun exposure (both cumulative and single, intense burns). Basal cell carcinomas tend to hang out where you get the most sun exposure — on your nose, ears, and face, says Dr. McNeill. "I have a lot of women that get them on the chest," she adds. "I also see them a lot right along the hairline" — a spot you might easily be missing when you apply your makeup or sunscreen, she says. While it's more common in people with very fair skin, you can develop one no matter your skin tone.

As far as cancer treatments go, basal cell carcinoma is a relative cinch. The shallowest spots can be scraped or burned off, but even the more "invasive" option is typically an easy in-office procedure called Mohs surgery. This procedure involves your dermatologist removing the tiny tumor one layer of tissue at a time, examining each layer under a microscope so they can be ultra-precise. "The goal of Mohs surgery is to remove the smallest amount of tissue to try to minimize any trace of a scar," Dr. McNeill explains.

While basal cell carcinoma is highly treatable, that doesn't mean you shouldn't take it seriously. Studies show that up to 50 percent of people with basal cell carcinoma have a recurrence within five years, reports the Cancer Treatment Centers of America. "If you've had a basal cell, wear sunscreen every single day and get regular skin exams either every six months or every year," says Dr. McNeill. "Chances are you are going to get another one,  and we want to catch it early."

Squamous Cell Carcinoma
Courtesy of Skin Cancer Foundation

Squamous cell carcinoma is the second most common form of skin cancer, and it's deadlier than the more commonly occurring basal cell. "If left untreated, squamous cell carcinomas are more likely to spread into the lymph nodes and be life-threatening," explains Dr. McNeill. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, an estimated 1.8 million cases are diagnosed in the U.S. each year, and it results in more than 15,000 deaths.

Squamous cell carcinomas can look similar to their more common cousins — a red sore with a raised border. But more commonly, they appear as red, scaly patches or open sores that crust and bleed. They can also look like a wart, Dr. McNeill adds. These raised bumps tend to crust and bleed too, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation.

"Just like basal cells, squamous cell carcinomas are the result of UV exposure," says Dr. McNeill. Therefore, they typically appear in places that are always in the sun, such as your scalp, face, and neck — even your lips.

Technically, squamous cell carcinomas are most common in people who are older with light skin. But the Skin Cancer Foundation notes two disturbing trends: This cancer is becoming more common in people in their 20s and 30s, and melanoma in dark skin tones is rising. Researchers chalk up the rise, at least in part, to the increased rates of indoor tanning. "People who use tanning beds are two and a half times more likely to develop squamous cell carcinoma than those who don't," the organization states.

Luckily, squamous cell carcinomas are treated fairly easily with the same methods used to treat basal cell. They can metastasize and spread to lymph nodes or other areas of the body, however, so don't think you can slack on getting a cancerous spot treated.

Melanoma
Courtesy of Skin Cancer Foundation

While the first two types of skin cancer tend not to be as serious, melanoma has a higher chance of being life-threatening. Though it only accounts for 1 percent of all skin cancers, reports the American Cancer Society, it's the deadliest.

"It's critical to educate yourself about melanomas," Julie Karen, a board-certified dermatologist, tells Allure. "What differentiates melanomas from benign moles is called the ABCDEs of melanoma," she explains.

  • A stands for asymmetry. "If you have a mole and the two sides don't match, that could be more concerning than a mole that's symmetrical," Dr. Karen says.
  • B is for border. "Most benign moles have perfectly round borders, where melanomas typically have jagged or scalloped borders," Dr. Karen explains.
  • C stands for color — color variation, specifically. "If a mole is multiple colors, that's a worrisome sign," Dr. McNeill says. "Uniform colors, even if it's very dark, aren't as worrisome." Generally, melanomas are black or brown, but they can also be red or even a bluish-purple. Some melanomas are actually colorless. Called amelanotic melanomas, these can be harder to detect. Typically, they "look like little pink bumps," says Dr. McNeill. If you see a pinkish or whitish spot that's either changing or new, have your derm take a look, she says.
  • D stands for diameter. "Melanoma can be small, but if you have a mole that's larger than the size of a pencil eraser, you should watch it a little more carefully because that's more likely to be cancerous than a smaller mole," Dr. Karen explains.
  • E stands for evolution. "If you have a mole that's changing in size, shape, or color, even if that mole has been previously examined, it's worth having it looked at again," Dr. Karen says.
Courtesy of Skin Cancer Foundation

Amelanotic melanomas in particular are super hard to spot — even for trained dermatologists. That's why getting regular skin checks is so important. Typically, doctors recommend going yearly to cover all your bases, "but there are exceptions to every rule,"Dr.  McNeill points out. "There are some melanomas that present very deep, very quickly," she says. 

Another thing that makes melanomas scary? They're good at hiding in hard-to-see places like your scalp. In addition to showing up in spots where you get the most sun exposure, they "can crop up in unexpected areas like under the nail, in the genital areas, on the palms and soles, even on the eyelids," says Dr. McNeill. "Be aware of that when you do a self-exam."

Sun exposure will up your risk for getting melanoma, but there's also a genetic component, says Dr. McNeill. "Know your family history. If one of your first-degree family members had it," — in other words, your mom or dad — "that increases your chances significantly," she says.

Though melanomas are very serious, she stresses they are by no means a death sentence. "If a melanoma is caught early, it has a very high cure rate. It's really when melanomas are not caught early that they become deadly," she says. Translation: Have a pro check your birthday suit every year (or twice a year if you have a history of skin cancer).

As a more aggressive cancer, melanomas require more aggressive treatment. If you catch it early (meaning it hasn't rooted deep into the skin), the cancerous tissue can usually be removed using a local anesthetic in your dermatologist's office. "With more advanced cases, we'll do a lymph node biopsy to test whether it's spread," explains Dr. McNeill. When that's the case, oncologists get involved to help treat the spread of the cancer.

What are the warning signs of other types of skin cancer?

While "the big three" are the most common types of skin cancer, they're not the only ones you should be aware of.

Merkel Cell Carcinoma
Courtesy of Skin Cancer Foundation

"After 'the big three,' the next skin cancer you think about is Merkel cell carcinoma," Doris Day, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and a spokesperson for the Skin Cancer Foundation, tells Allure. While it's pretty uncommon — about 40 times rarer than melanoma — Dr. Day says it's deadlier. Merkel cell carcinoma kills one in three patients (as opposed to one in nine for melanoma), according to the Skin Cancer Foundation.

This type of cancer is incredibly hard to spot, which explains why it's so deadly. "Merkel cell can be tricky to diagnose because it doesn't always present the same way; it can look like a cyst or just a little red bump, and it can occur anywhere on the body," says Dr. Day. "This is one of the reasons why it's super important to see a board-certified dermatologist for skin checks."

Merkel cell carcinomas typically don't occur in people under 50, but recent data suggests that could change. As we previously reported, rates of Merkel cell are estimated to be rising six times faster than other types of skin cancer — something seriously concerning to dermatologists, given how aggressive this type of cancer can be. "If a Merkel cell is not treated, it's certainly deadlier than a melanoma," says Dr. McNeill.

What about other types of cancer that aren't skin-related?

"Certain metastatic cancers can show up in the skin," says Dr. Day. Cancers prone to spreading (such as breast cancer or kidney cancer), can sometimes spread to the skin, causing what might look like a cyst or little red bump

A type of lymphoma (cancer of the lymph nodes) called CTCL can also show up in the form of skin issues. Though cutaneous T-cell lymphoma isn't technically a skin cancer, it can show up on your skin looking "like eczema," explains Dr. Day. Just like eczema, the cancer-induced rash can be itchy and dry, and "the skin has a cigarette-paper quality to it," she explains.

For these types of skin issues, a dermatologist would refer you to a specialist in treating that specific cancer.

How can I reduce my risk of skin cancer?

Factors like genetics can influence your risk of getting skin cancer, but the number-one culprit is still the sun. Naturally, the biggest thing you can do is use the best sunscreens available — all the time. "You really have to wear sunscreen every single day," Dr. Karen says. When you're actually at the beach or spending a lot of time outside in the sun's rays, make sure to reapply every two hours, she says.

As much as we love our SPF, Dr. Karen stresses sunscreen alone isn't enough. "It should be one component of a smart sun strategy that includes hats, long sleeves, sun-protective clothing, and sitting in the shade," she explains.

"If you don't go in the sun, it doesn't guarantee that you'll never get skin cancer, but it does greatly decrease your risk of the big three," Dr. Day adds.

Be sure to keep up with yearly skin checks. If you have a history of skin cancer, either personally or in your family, your dermatologist might recommend upping them to every six months. And in the meantime, don't be afraid to see your derm about something that looks weird.

Dr. McNeill recommends making an appointment to see your dermatologist if a spot — a weird bump, sore, mole, or pimple that just won't go away — is not healing after a month. "You should not have a pimple or a scab or new bump for a month," she says.

Finally, the experts stress the importance of seeing a board-certified dermatologist — not just any doctor — for suspicious spots. "A board-certified dermatologist does at least three years of residency training just in skin conditions," explains Dr. McNeill. Other doctors might not have as much experience in spotting something worrisome — especially the rarer types of skin cancer.


For more on how to prevent skin cancer:


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