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Skin barrier function has been the focal point of most of my conversations with dermatologists and beauty brand founders lately. The latest skin-care products, namely barrier creams, are being formulated precisely with the skin's moisture barrier in mind — mostly because it's what keeps your skin happy and healthy.
While it wards off irritation and redness, "the skin's moisture barrier helps the skin to retain moisture, specifically water," New York-based board-certified dermatologist Kenneth Mark previously explained to Allure. However, its abilities to do so can easily be affected by your skin-care routine, diet (i.e. how much water, alcohol, and caffeine you drink), and the environment, such as the sun, wind, and pollution. Breakouts, eczema, and even fine lines may strike as a result of a compromised barrier.
Instead of solely offering moisturizers, more and more beauty brands are adding products labeled barrier cream (or barrier repair cream) to their lineups. Unlike moisturizers, barrier creams are usually thick and do more than just hydrate your visage. They also maintain and repair your skin's barrier function by protecting your complexion from irritants and drying out, Boston-based board-certified dermatologist Joyce Imahiyerobo-Ip tells Allure.
Another major key to barrier creams is reducing transepidermal water loss, adds Naana Boakye, an assistant clinical professor at Mount Sinai St. Luke's Hospital in New York City. Think of skin like a broken pipe. Every second, water is trickling out of your skin, even more so at night. Layering a barrier cream on top acts almost as tape to stop it from leaking water. Boakye typically recommends doing so at night, which is optimal barrier repair time, so, "in the morning, your skin will be supple," she says.
Michelle and Jenny tapped dermatologist Claire Chang to share why hydration is the key to plump skin and the best ingredients to achieve it.
Now that you know exactly what a barrier cream does, you're probably wondering if you need it. Most skin types can benefit from it, Imahiyerobo-Ip shares, but those with sensitive skin need it most. "In the current pandemic, many people are overwashing to prevent infection," she adds. "This can increase the risk of skin irritation, which is not easily resolved with the typical moisturizing cream alone."
Boakye says barrier creams also come in handy for her patients with psoriasis, xerosis (aka dry skin), atopic dermatitis (or eczema), and ichthyosis, which causes skin to be rough, scaly, and thickened.
Urea, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid are on Boakye's wish list for barrier creams. These special ingredients all naturally occur in skin to keep it plump, dewy, and nourished. Imahiyerobo-Ip echoes this set of ingredients, adding humectants glycerin, shea butter, and cocoa butter to it.
"To be honest, I'm a Vaseline kind of chick," Boakye admits. "It is a simple product that is quite effective." Not only does she praise its wound-healing abilities, but also its moisturizing properties. She interchanges her moisturizer with Vaseline depending on her skin's condition each day. And on her body, she slathers on the Karité Shea Butter Body Cream, which she created with her sisters from Ghana.
Imahiyerobo-Ip, on the other hand, rubs on a thick moisturizer, like Farmacy Honey Halo Ultra-Hydrating Ceramide Moisturizer, before sealing it in with Vaseline. (Some call this method slugging.) Connecticut-based board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara also recently suggested her current favorite, the La Roche-Posay Lipikar Balm AP+ Intense Repair Moisturizing Cream, and the EltaMD Barrier Renewal Complex, an Allure editor-favorite brand, to our readers.
For a more lightweight, luxe option, Allure editors love the cloud-like First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair BarriAIR Cream. A richer, more fine line-focused pick we reach for is the StriVectin Wrinkle Recode Moisture Rich Barrier Cream.
Read more about skin-care products Allure editors swear by:
- The 17 Best Pimple Patches That Help Clear Acne Overnight
- 21 Creams and Serums That Work Like Botox in a Bottle
- The Most Exciting Drugstore Beauty Products of 2021
Now, watch Martha Stewart's morning beauty routine in action:
