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Anyone else's skin dry as hell right now? Of course. It's winter. Pretty much everyone is dealing with skin that looks as if it could do with a passing over by a Swiffer duster. Unfortunately for me, I've got the added bonus of dealing with super itchy shins and random rough spots on my upper arms. It's not pretty.
But that's what moisturizer is for. And there are some damn good options I enjoy using like the Eucerin Eczema Relief Cream or the Aveeno Baby Eczema Therapy Moisturizing Cream (which I can't recommend enough). But no matter what I use — whether it's raw shea butter straight from West Africa, or a super-rich, fancy lotion that costs as much as a new set of gel extensions — there is only one product that seems to work for me every time. And that's the humble Palmer's Cocoa Butter Formula.
If there's a drugstore, you'll be able to find Palmer's. It's solid Cocoa Butter Formula is a bonafide classic, a moisturizer that contains a mixture of oils like cocoa seed and sunflower, which are mixed together to form the balm-like product. It's been around for decades and I've been using it since I was a child. My mother used to slather it all over me as I was getting ready for school, being sure to pay special attention to my elbows and heels; the parts of the body that always seems to get ashy faster than the rest. I loved it as a kid because it smelled like chocolate — that was really big for me — but as an adult, I continue to stan because of what it actually does for my skin.
The stuff is housed in a jar, coming, as mentioned, in solid form. The texture is the happy medium between solid coconut oil (which tends to melt into your skin quickly when you rub it in) and shea butter (which takes little more work). It is far softer than solid shea butter and doesn't turn into a liquid once it gets above 76 degrees Fahrenheit.
There's a reason for it: formulation, baby. "Most lotions and creams are emulsions made mostly of water," says Cincinnati, Ohio-based cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos. "Palmer's is primarily a blend of oils, cocoa butter, and wax, which help soften the skin and lock in hydration." The oils are combined with a wax to keep their consistency stable and not subject to changes in the temperature. Los Angeles-based cosmetic chemist Ni'Kita Wilson pinpoints the inclusion of microcrystalline wax, specifically, as the reason it holds up so well in the jar. Its high melting point means you don't have a liquidy mess when you go to open it.
But besides the easy-to-use formula, what I love most about this is how soft it makes my skin feel. And it's not just softness — it's deeply-penetrating moisture that lasts. When I use regular shea butter, for example, to moisturize in the a.m., by the end of the day, my skin is dry again. Parched, even. Thirstier than a manosphere podcaster looking for clout. But when I switch back to my tried-and-true Palmer's, my skin still feels really supple and hydrated, even at bedtime.
Now, this product isn't for everyone. It is so deeply moisturizing, that when you first put it on your skin, it can feel greasy before it absorbs. It's a sacrifice I'm willing to make for skin that feels great all day. Nothing can compare to the buttery softness it leaves me with. If you don't like that greasy feeling, even if it lasts a few minutes as it settles, you probably won't be into using this all over your body. You may, however, prefer to use it on smaller areas that tend to dry out like your elbows, knees, and heels.
So why does this stuff work so well? "The cocoa butter, oils, and other emollients help to soften and smooth the surface of the skin," says Dobos. "There's a synergistic effect when combined with wax and dimethicone that help form an occlusive barrier to water loss." It is worth noting, though, that the formula does contain mineral oil. There has been a lot of controversy around the ingredient and whether or not it's "good" for your skin.
Mineral oil helps create a barrier on your skin that locks in moisture, which, as Wilson notes, is part of the reason why this product is so long-lasting. Mineral oil can be comedogenic, but it isn't always. The fact is it does have some major benefits, too, so much so, that Dobos admits she's actually a fan of the ingredient.
"Unlike natural oils which can oxidize and turn rancid, resulting in the formation of irritating compounds and unpleasant odors, mineral oil is incredibly safe and stable," says Dobos. "In fact, baby oil is primarily composed of mineral oil because of its excellent ability to seal in moisture in fragile infant skin." Of course, if you have concerns, talk to your dermatologist first. As for me, I've been using this stuff for several decades and haven't had any issues.
If you're still on board, I would recommend high-tailing it to your nearest drugstore or beauty supply shop and picking up a jar of this for the winter. I scour Amazon all the time for the 17.8-ounce tub, but a more standard size 7.25-ounce jar will cost you around $7.
More beauty reviews:
- The Harry Josh Pro Dryer 2000 Is So Good, I Stopped Getting Professional Blowouts
- Nyx Professional Makeup Is Launching a Tetris-Inspired Collection With an 80-Pan Eye Shadow Palette
- I Wanted to Dislike Kinship's New Face Oil, But My Stressed Skin Loves It
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