What makes one serum better than the next? On the shelf (or screen), it’s virtually impossible to know — unless you’re a chemist. Or you buddy up to one and get all her secrets for deciphering ingredient lists...and finding skin care that really works.
Don’t put too much stock in fancy claims.
There are no FDA definitions that govern the use of terms like “hypoallergenic” and “noncomedogenic” on skin-care products; a company can do extensive testing or not, and use them. If you have sensitive skin, avoid products with fragrances or known allergens, like parabens and propylene glycol. If you’re prone to breakouts, look for liquid and gel textures, and be wary of “oil-free” claims — a product can be pore-clogging and not contain oil. And there are no specific federal definitions for “clinically proven” or dermatologist-tested” either. So what to do if you want a super effective product? Keep reading.
Read to the end.
Ingredients are listed in order of their concentrations, “except for ones that are less than 1 percent of the formula and colorants, fragrances, and preservatives,” says King. Those can be listed in any order the manufacturer likes, adds cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson, the founder of Beautystat.com. The first five ingredients or so are typically the bulk of the formula and usually include glycerin (an excellent moisturizer). But that doesn’t mean an ingredient has to be up top to change your skin: Collagen-boosting peptides are effective at low levels, says King.
Don’t fear the unpronounceable.
You could be missing out on major results. One of King’s favorite collagen-stimulating ingredients is acetyl hexapeptide-8, whose long, complex name describes its chemical structure. Chelating ingredients with EDTA or EDDS in their name prevent heavy metals in tap water (which can stay on your face after you cleanse) from degrading delicate ingredients in skin care, says Robinson. And emulsifiers (many have “-eth” suffixes) work to prevent your product from separating in the bottle — so you get active ingredients with every pump, says Dobos.
Know the line between “ow ow” and “owwwww!”
The most effective levels of retinol and vitamin C — two of the best ingredients for smoothing and brightening (respectively) — can be painfully irritating or become unstable. The exceptions: slow-release retinol (it should say so on the box) and a form of vitamin C called ascorbic acid. “Look for those and you’ll get the highest possible levels of the active ingredients without risking redness or flaking,” says cosmetic chemist Ginger King.
Don’t shop by trend.
Some ingredients aren’t exotic, but there’s a reason you see them everywhere. “Niacinamide is one of the best for evening skin tone,” says cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos. “And sodium hyaluronate — the form of hyaluronic acid found naturally in your skin — is very effective for plumping lines.”
A version of this article originally appeared in the November 2017 issue of Allure. To get your copy, head to newsstands or subscribe now.
More on reading labels:
- The Surprising Placebo Effect of a Luxury Beauty Product's High Price Tags and Fancy Packaging
- What “Hypoallergenic” Really Means in Cosmetics
- This Is the Right Way to Read Nutrition Labels
Buzzfeed: Are You Reading Nutrition Labels Wrong?
