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If you're familiar with the dandruff-shampoo commercials of the 20th century, you might have been left with the impression that the skin condition, usually affecting the scalp, is something to be embarrassed about. That couldn't be farther from the truth; dandruff can happen to anyone. It has nothing to do with hygiene and can affect people of all ages and at any time. Yup, that means you can go years dandruff-free for it to appear seemingly out of nowhere.
But the comforting truth is there's usually a specific trigger behind its sudden arrival. In other words, it's entirely manageable once you pinpoint the reason for its onset — and you might be surprised to learn that many causes are more common than you might think. We consulted four board-certified dermatologists for how to quell your sudden bout of dandruff.
- Jeannette Graf, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mt Sinai School of Medicine in New York.
- Heidi Prather, DO, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Texas.
- Deanne Mraz Robinson, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Connecticut.
- Kseniya Kobets, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore.
- What is dandruff?
- Do I have dandruff or dry scalp?
- Why do I suddenly have dandruff?
- What ingredients help with dandruff?
What is dandruff?
Dandruff is a common scalp condition that manifests as loose, white scales or plaques. It can be caused by multiple factors and come about at any time in your life. Not to stress you out, but it can evolve into a more severe type of dandruff called seborrheic dermatitis if left untreated.
Dandruff isn't limited to the scalp alone. "You might experience flaky skin on the scalp, eyebrows, nasal folds, or ear canals," says Jeannette Graf, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York. "These areas can also become itchy, causing irritation and redness and ultimately more skin patches to flake off."
Do I have dandruff or a dry scalp?
To address dandruff, you first need to ensure that what you’re experiencing is actually dandruff and not dry scalp. The two conditions share visible similarities but are entirely different, says Heidi Prather, DO, a board-certified dermatologist based in Texas.
"While they both produce flakes, the primary difference is that the flakes from a dry scalp are usually small in size and white and look like dry skin,” says Dr. Graf. “The flakes from dandruff are usually larger, can have a yellow hue, and are sometimes oily.”
If you're unsure which you have, she recommends consulting a board-certified dermatologist for a diagnosis. "It's important you know which one you have because they each have different treatment plans," she adds.
Why do I suddenly have dandruff?
There are numerous reasons why you might be suddenly dealing with dandruff. Below, we've listed common causes, courtesy of the dermatologists consulted for this piece, to help determine what might be the culprit.
"Not washing the scalp can cause a buildup of oils and an overgrowth of normal flora,” says Dr. Prather. That flora includes a type of yeast called Malassezia, which can cause greasy, yellow scales. If someone has too much of this yeast, the skin cells multiply faster, causing a fungal overgrowth, Deanne Mraz Robinson, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Connecticut, says. This ultimately causes dandruff.
However, there doesn’t need to be an overabundance of yeast to trigger dandruff. "If you are not washing your hair frequently enough, sebum and dead skin cells together can build up and cause dandruff," Dr. Robinson adds.
Conversely, “over-washing the scalp can also cause the scalp to over-produce oil so there needs to be a balance,” explains Kseniya Kobets, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore.
To find a happy medium, there’s no exact one-size-fits-all method. Achieving the right balance between washing your hair adequately and overdoing it truly depends on the individual. Dr. Graf says those “with oilier scalps may need to wash every other day, while those with less oil production and drier hair may only need to wash their hair once a week.”
It might seem obvious but, Dr. Graf recommends paying close attention to your scalp and following a hair wash regimen that works for you. “For example, if your hair or scalp is becoming dry, that may be a sign to wash less frequently, and vice versa,” she says.
Pay attention to the ingredients in your favorite products — especially sprays. "Products with alcohol can cause dryness, which triggers more sebum production that leads to dandruff," says Dr. Robinson, who also recommends avoiding products that contain fragrance whenever possible.
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Application is important, too. Dr. Prather advises against excessive use of conditioners or oil-based hair products on the scalp, as they could potentially worsen dandruff. Frequently, these products are designed for application from the mid to ends of the hair, yet they are mistakenly used on one's whole head of hair.
Remember, it doesn't matter which product you're using if you're not on the proper hair-washing schedule for you. "Cool it on the hair products until the flare is under control, and slowly introduce them back in,” says Dr. Robinson.
"Eating food high in sugars, unhealthy fats or any food which produces inflammation adds to imbalances in the formation of skin and hair and hair follicles," says Dr. Graf. She suggests eating a diet filled with Omega-3s and leafy greens, which should help lessen your symptoms. The expert says the right nutrition can "help regulate oil production and have anti-inflammatory properties which can help with dandruff symptoms as well."
Dr. Prather explains that individuals are prone to experiencing a dry scalp more frequently in winter, attributed to the lower humidity levels in the air. Conversely, dandruff tends to be more prevalent in the summer due to heightened moisture, increased sweating, and elevated oil production on the scalp. Dr. Robinson echoes Dr. Prather's statement, adding that "being in moist, humid, warm environments fosters the growth of Malassezia.”
You're not excluded if you don't live in the South. Your gym in the Midwest winter can be equally problematic. Sweat from working out can flare scalp dandruff, says Dr. Prather. One temporary solution during exercise is to spritz some dry shampoo onto your roots beforehand to absorb excess oils and sweat — but it shouldn't be used in place of washing your hair because that may cause product buildup and defeat the purpose entirely.
Although Dr. Robinson says dandruff isn't a sign of any underlying medical condition, it can be triggered by hormonal changes and even stress. "Increased levels of stress can trigger dandruff,” she says. “When our cortisol, the stress hormone, rises, it triggers inflammation and sebum production. If the sebum builds up on the scalp, that can lead to dandruff."
What ingredients help with dandruff?
You may be able to get rid of dandruff by making small changes to your lifestyle — like those outlined above — and by using the right products. The good news is that there are tons to choose from, many available over the counter. These products “contain ingredients that decrease inflammation, treat yeast overgrowth on the scalp, and help with exfoliation of the scale," Dr. Prather says.
Two dandruff-fighting ingredients to look for in your shampoo are zinc pyrithione and ketoconazole, which both target yeast. Dr. Robinson and Dr. Graf both recommend Head & Shoulders Dandruff Shampoo, which contains zinc pyrithione, and Nizoral A-D Anti-Dandruff Shampoo which uses ketoconazole.
"If you have a lot of scales, I recommend salicylic acid-based products, such as the Neutrogena T/Sal Therapeutic Shampoo," Dr. Prather says, explaining it helps with skin turnover to eliminate scale and reduce yeast growth and excess oil.
"Tea tree oil is another ingredient you'll see on many dandruff labels as it has both antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties," Dr. Robsinson says. She likes the tea tree oil-spiked CLN Dermatologics Shampoo and Vanicream Dandruff Shampoo.
Above all, before you spend your hard-earned funds on a new hair-washing regimen, remember that they may not be effective in severe or genetic cases. It's best to make an appointment with your dermatologist, who may write you a script for a prescription shampoo or a cleanser to help heal your scalp effectively — and fast.
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All products featured on Allure are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.
More on scalp health:
- We Asked TikTok's Resident "Greasy Hair Girl" Why She Didn't Shampoo for 8 Years
- Why You Shouldn’t Take Hot Showers, According to Dermatologists
- The 19 Best Scalp Products for Soothing Dryness and Irritation
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