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For folks with sensitive skin, even the most seemingly harmless and soothing skin-care ingredients can sometimes cause an adverse reaction (looking at you, niacinamide). So when it comes to retinol, a form of vitamin A that aids in cell turnover for healthier skin, those who are sensitive should tread lightly, as the ingredient has a track record of inducing irritation. That said, "retinol can be used by nearly everyone if it is used correctly," says Erin Gilbert, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. Her motto? "Start low and take it slow."
Dr. Gilbert isn't the only skin-care expert with advice for using retinol effectively on sensitive skin. We spoke with several dermatologists and gathered their best tips and tricks for how to use retinol on delicate and hypersensitive skin types.
- Erin Gilbert, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
- Shari Marchbein, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
- Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
- Sejal Shah, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
- Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine.
- Always do a gentle cleanse before using retinol
- Try a gentler version of retinol first
- Pair retinol with moisturizer
- Don't overdo it with retinol
- Avoid other harsh ingredients when using retinol
- Try the short contact method for retinol
- Be patient when using retinol
Always do a gentle cleanse before using retinol
Above all, you want to ensure the skin is properly cleansed before even thinking about using retinol. New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Shari Marchbein, MD stresses that washing your face with a gentle cleanser first is key. Look for those without actives like exfoliants. Dr. Marchbein suggests CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser, formulated with moisturizing ceramides and hyaluronic acid, and Neutrogena Ultra Gentle Daily Cleanser, which is made with moisture-locking glycerin. Burt's Bees Gentle Cream Cleanser and First Aid Beauty Pure Skin Face Cleanser are two Allure editor-approved options.
Try a gentler version of retinol first
Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City, says that if it's your first rodeo with retinol, it's wise consider experimenting with what's called a retinyl ester. In layman's terms, retinyl ester is a less concentrated form of vitamin A, which isn't as aggressive on sensitive complexions. "Look for [something] like retinyl propionate, as it's much milder on the skin as compared to pure retinol," he says. "You can think of it as an entry-level version." Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Night Cream contains retinyl propionate as well as complexion-calming red-algae extract.
If you'd prefer to start with straight-up retinol, Sejal Shah, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, recommends starting out with a low-concentration of the ingredient: ideally, around 0.05 percent. Moreover, Dr. Shah suggests seeking out cream formulations because those with a gel or serum-like consistency tend to be more concentrated. We like Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Night Moisturizer and Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream.
Pair retinol with moisturizer
Ask any dermatologist and they'll tell you: Incorporating a retinol into your skin-care routine without the use of moisturizer is probably a bad idea. That's because without that added layer of hydration, risk of sensitivity is higher. "Moisturizing first should not interfere with how well the retinol absorbs into the skin [and] can protect it from potential irritation," says Dr. Zeichner.
There are several ways to layer a hydrator with retinol. For starters, you can mix a small amount of the retinol into your facial cream, which helps dilute it. Or you can use what Dr. Marchbein calls "the sandwich technique." This involves applying a layer of moisturizer to the skin, using your retinol of choice on top of that, and then slathering on another layer of moisturizer to lock it all in. "Studies have shown that this base layer of moisturizer does not dilute or reduce the efficacy of the retinoid, but instead helps with tolerability," says Dr. Marchbein.
And yes, you can also just simply apply retinol after you've moisturized, without using the sandwich technique, if you find that works just fine for you. "You can use moisturizer before or afterward to counteract some of the side effects [of retinol]," confirms Dr. Shah.
But no matter how you apply retinol in your skin-care routine — whether it's before, after, through dilution, or using the sandwich method — integrating a moisturizer into your regimen when using the vitamin A derivative can help reduce the risk of irritation if you're sensitive.
Don't overdo it with retinol
This tip truly can't be stressed enough. Yes, retinol can be used more often and in greater quantity as time goes on, but dermatologists suggest starting small with just a pea-size dollop two or three nights a week. This is so the skin can become accustom to the active ingredient, making it more tolerable over time.
"If everything is going well after about two weeks and you're experiencing no dryness, redness, or flaking, you can gradually increase the frequency of application of the retinol to every other night for a week or two, then nightly," says Dr. Gilbert. "The rule of thumb is: Pull back on how many nights you're using retinol if you're getting irritation or dryness, and move ahead if you're doing fine."
Don't think you won't reap retinol's benefits if you're not using it nightly, either. Gilbert says that studies have shown it's possible to still get visible results from using the vitamin A derivative only three times a week.
Avoid other harsh ingredients when using retinol
When using a retinol, Dr. Marchbein says it's best to steer clear of certain skin-care ingredients like glycolic and other alpha hydroxy acids, which can contribute to dryness and irritation. If you'd still like to incorporate them in your routine, use them on the nights you aren't using retinol. It's also advised not to mix retinol with benzoyl peroxide, which is commonly used to treat acne breakouts, as the two ingredients neutralize each other, which causes both to be less effective.
In general, Dr. Marchbein advises pairing retinol with gentle formulations like the aforementioned cleansers, as well as soothing creams, like Kiehl's Ultra Facial Moisturizer, which also contains skin barrier-strengthening squalane.
Try the short contact method for retinol
A particularly interesting tip from Dr. Shah is to try what she calls "short contact application." It's a technique that involves applying retinol, letting it sit on the skin for a few minutes, then washing it off. "As your skin adjusts, you can gradually increase the time and ultimately leave it on overnight," says Dr. Shah. She also reiterates that you only need to use a very small amount. "The size of a pea is sufficient for the whole face."
Be patient when using retinol
It takes time for the vitamin A derivative to treat acne, dark spots, or any other skin concerns you are looking to correct. Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine, says that typically you can expect to start seeing results in as little as six weeks or as long as three months.
When you start to notice a difference in your skin — a more even skin tone, less acne, or a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, according to Dr. Gohara — then that's a good sign your retinol is working. If you're worried that more harm than good is being caused to the skin — of if you're just not seeing the results you want — Dr. Gohara says it's time to seek out the advice of a dermatologist, who can help prescribe a vitamin A derivative at a strength more likely to work better for you.
Read more about retinol:
- 16 Best Retinol Serums to Treat Fine Lines & Uneven Texture
- 11 Retinol Myths, Debunked
- 10 Best Retinol Body Lotions That'll Give You Firmer, Smoother Skin
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